Building a SSC Warbird Fuselage - Page #5

Measure back about 2 inches

Make sure that you've hooked the servo up to a receiver and gotten it centered.

If you're going to use a pressure bladder then you'll want to make a pinch off loop in your throttle rod so that the loop will be behind the firewall when the servo is back to idle.

The servo does not go in the foam this way. It goes in the same as the elevator servo did, the top facing out. This picture is just to give you a perspective of the servo arm, linkage and the engine.

Route out the servo cavity the same as the elevator. The cavity should be cut so that the servo fits into the foam very tightly.

Next make the cavity for the receiver from within the wing saddle.

You can route out the foam down to the level of the crutch.

Then carefully route the cavity toward the nose

Checking to see if you've got enough depth for the receiver to fit and clear the LE of the wing saddle.

You may reach a point that you can't reach in with the dremel bit and if so you can use the heated tubing to melt the foam back further.

You should end up with a cavity that looks something like this. That's a Hitec 555 receiver.

Next cut out the cavity for the battery pack. This may or may not be an easy one for you. The battery packs we've been using are made up of four AAA 700ma Nimh batteries made into a square pack and fit very well within these 2 inch fuselages.

As you can see it's in the bottom of the nose. Putting as much of the weight up front makes it easier to get the plane to CG.

Make the battery cavity so that they fit nice and snug.

This picture gives you an idea of the relative locations of the receiver, battery, and switch cavity.

This cavity is where the extension cable from the receiver and the cable coming from the battery come together to make the switch.

Using the same method, make a channel from the receiver cavity to the switch cavity. Next make a channel from the battery cavity to the switch cavity.

In this picture you see the battery cable.

Click on the thumbnail for a larger version!

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Measure back about 2 inches	Make sure that you've hooked the servo up to a receiver and gotten it centered.	If you're going to use a pressure bladder then you'll want to make a pinch off loop in your throttle rod so that the loop will be behind the firewall when the servo is back to idle.	The servo does not go in the foam this way. It goes in the same as the elevator servo did, the top facing out. This picture is just to give you a perspective of the servo arm, linkage and the engine.
Route out the servo cavity the same as the elevator. The cavity should be cut so that the servo fits into the foam very tightly.		Next make the cavity for the receiver from within the wing saddle.	You can route out the foam down to the level of the crutch.
	Then carefully route the cavity toward the nose	Checking to see if you've got enough depth for the receiver to fit and clear the LE of the wing saddle.	You may reach a point that you can't reach in with the dremel bit and if so you can use the heated tubing to melt the foam back further.
You should end up with a cavity that looks something like this. That's a Hitec 555 receiver.	Next cut out the cavity for the battery pack. This may or may not be an easy one for you. The battery packs we've been using are made up of four AAA 700ma Nimh batteries made into a square pack and fit very well within these 2 inch fuselages.	As you can see it's in the bottom of the nose. Putting as much of the weight up front makes it easier to get the plane to CG.	Make the battery cavity so that they fit nice and snug.
This picture gives you an idea of the relative locations of the receiver, battery, and switch cavity.	This cavity is where the extension cable from the receiver and the cable coming from the battery come together to make the switch.	Using the same method, make a channel from the receiver cavity to the switch cavity. Next make a channel from the battery cavity to the switch cavity.	In this picture you see the battery cable.